I have briefly come out of my surf hibernation to speak about a topic I have spoken about before, but have not spoken about recently because it felt like “why bother”. The cult of the freebirth movement (notice I did…
I’ll Just be Here
What to think as the mainstream world becomes dumber each day…. Maybe it doesn’t deserve my attention. But I am sharing my thoughts because I know so many of you here share similar ones. Gone are the days of anything…
Sink or swim
This is me with my surfboard at a special spot on this island that rarely “breaks”. (Photo credit to my daughter Amelia!) By breaks…we mean it rarely has waves. Only when the conditions are just right, and the right conditions…
no I am not ready
Sometimes we are not ready for the thing we want to do. I like being challenged but sometimes the challenge is too much. It is not wise to proceed because to do so would be egotistical or just plain stupid….
People Are SO annoying
I was just re-reading one of the few newsletters I subscribe to. It was written by a (virtual) surf coach of mine; a guy I have gotten to know, to learn from and who I really admire. His focus of…
I’ll Attend a Birth for 50K
Rune, my 16 year old son asked me the other night how much I would “need” to be paid to attend births again. My own auto-answer surprised me. Before I could analyze or do the math, and before I could…

